A Family Adventure in Battambang

The morning after the lady drummer's performance, we set off early for Battambang, a three-hour drive from Siem Reap. Along the way, we had a quick toilet break, during which my dad managed to forget his wallet! After a brief moment of panic, we rushed back to find that a kind police officer had picked it up and returned it with everything still inside. It was a lucky escape!

We reached the city by 9 AM and decided to rent scooters for the day. After a little practice outside the city (less traffic, less stress), we were ready to roll!

Pagoda Pitstop

Our first stop was a local pagoda. The heat was intense, so Kiki and I opted for fresh coconuts while the rest of the family braved the sun to explore the temple. They returned 20 minutes later, drenched in sweat, and we all recharged with ice-cold Cokes before continuing.

At this point, my mom’s eye started hurting, and it didn’t look great. We took a scenic route back toward Battambang, stopping at pharmacies along the way. After four attempts, we finally found one that had eye drops. The best part? The shop owner was so grateful that we are in Cambodia, exploring and supporting the country, that she gave the eyedrops for free! Moments like these remind me how warm and generous Cambodian people can be.

The Famous Bamboo Train

Back in the city, we grabbed some food before setting off on a mission to find the famous bamboo train. After driving in circles under the scorching sun, we finally found it—hidden in a shady alley on the outskirts of town.

Haggling over the price was part of the fun, and once we settled on a deal, the Khmer driver assembled the "train"—a bamboo platform on four train wheels, powered by a bike engine at the back. As we set off down the tracks, the views were stunning, but the noise was deafening! The steel wheels against the metal tracks created a high-pitched screech that still rings in my ears.

At one point, the driver stopped the train, completely disassembled it, and led us to a small roadside shop for a break. We sipped on drinks, watched a real train pass by, and Kiki bought a bamboo train t-shirt as a souvenir. Then, we hopped back on the tracks and rattled our way back.

Back at our bikes, we drove off to the next destination: the killing cave.

The Haunting Beauty of the Killing Caves of Battambang

As we drove up the hill just outside Battambang, about 11 kilometers from the city, I noticed the weight of two adults was taking a toll on the bike's engine. It felt like an ordinary hill in most aspects, even though it wasn't. This hill holds the Killing Caves, a grim reminder of Cambodia’s darkest days under the Khmer Rouge.

We parked the bikes and continued on foot. First we noticed statues showing the horrors that happened here not too long ago. It's hard to imagine what people do to each other. We first climbed to the top of the hill where there is the face of Buddha overlooking the hill. Looking out from the hilltop, we saw beyond the caves—the canals dug by children, the fields where people were forced to work and starve while the Khmer Rouge sold rice to buy weapons. After taking it all in, we walked down to the caves.

Standing at the edge of a daylight shaft, I tried to imagine the horror that once unfolded here. The regime’s victims were brought to the top, stabbed or shot, then pushed into the cave below. Men and women were separated, their clothing discarded into a different cave. Even today, small bones and teeth sometimes emerge after heavy rain, silent witnesses to the past.

Inside, a large glass memorial stands beside a collection of skulls and bones. An eerily serene golden reclining Buddha rests within the cave—a symbol of peace amidst the echoes of suffering. Another chilling sight is the makeshift memorial made of cyclone fencing and chicken wire, housing more human remains.

Despite its tragic past, the site remains a place of reflection. The caves, once Buddhist temples, now tell stories not just of suffering but also of remembrance. Visiting them is a sobering experience that offers a deep, unfiltered look into Cambodia’s history.

The Killing Caves

From there, we rode to one of Cambodia’s most somber sites—the Killing Caves of Battambang. As we climbed the hill, I noticed the bike struggling under the weight of two adults, its engine whining on the incline.

At the entrance, we were met with eerie statues depicting the horrors that took place here. It’s difficult to comprehend how such atrocities happened in a place that once served as a Buddhist temple. We continued to the top of the hill, where a massive Buddha face overlooks the land. From here, we could see the canals dug by children and the fields where people were starved and worked to death while the Khmer Rouge sold rice to fund their weapons.

Descending into the caves, we reached the site of the executions. Victims were led to the top of the daylight shaft, stabbed or shot, and thrown into the darkness below. Even today, bones and teeth sometimes emerge after heavy rain.

Inside, a glass memorial holds skulls and bones, standing solemnly beside a golden reclining Buddha. A crude chicken-wire enclosure nearby contains even more remains—a chilling sight that forces you to pause and reflect. It’s a painful but important place to visit, a reminder of Cambodia’s resilience in the face of its past.

Bats at Dusk

After the Killing Caves, we rode down to another famous site—the bat caves. As the sun began to set, locals set up chairs and tables, selling food and drinks to visitors waiting for the spectacle.

At first, nothing happened. We sat in anticipation, staring at the cave entrance. Then, without warning, the bats emerged—thousands upon thousands of them, swarming into the sky in a mesmerizing, fluid motion. They moved like a living river, twisting and turning in the air, heading out in search of food. The sight was breathtaking.

We stayed until the last bat disappeared into the night, then hopped back on our scooters, returning them before catching a taxi back to Siem Reap.

What a day! From fun scooter rides and the rickety bamboo train to the haunting Killing Caves and the spectacular bat exodus, Battambang had given us a day full of unforgettable experiences.